Jean Paul Gaultier SS1994 “Freemasons” Sweatshirt
Rare archival piece from JPG’s iconic Fall/Winter 1994 collection, featuring an all-over print of occult, religious, and heraldic symbols. Includes the All-Seeing Eye, “God Save the Queen”-style portrait, knights, dragons, angels, and esoteric motifs. A prime example of Gaultier’s fusion of high fashion with punk, mysticism, and historical references.
Size: XL
Condition: Very Good (no flaws, print still vibrant)
Measurements:
• Length: 69 cm
• Pit to Pit: 49 cm
• Sleeve Length: 75 cm
List of Symbols:
• All-Seeing Eye in Triangle (Eye of Providence) – Divine omniscience, spiritual insight, and sometimes associated with Freemasonry or conspiracy imagery.
• Sun with Face (two variations) – Alchemical and heraldic emblem for vitality, illumination, and cosmic order.
• Snake/Serpent (open mouth, fangs exposed) – Temptation, danger, transformation, and hidden wisdom.
• Coiled Serpent – Eternity, cyclical nature, and latent danger.
• Chains – Bondage, oppression, or unbreakable links between forces.
• Heraldic Shield with Horned Beast/Devil Head and Stars – Power, defiance, and esoteric or occult connotations.
• Knight Slaying Dragon – Triumph of good over evil (Saint George archetype).
• Crowned Female Figure with Staff/Scepter – Authority, divine right, and protection.
• “God Save the Queen”-style Portrait – A visual nod to Queen Elizabeth II, referencing British monarchy and punk rebellion, popularized by the Sex Pistols’ 1977 graphic.
• Radiant Haloed Figure (possibly angel or saint) – Spiritual authority, divine inspiration.
• Cherub/Putto – Innocence, heavenly love, and Renaissance influence.
• Winged Demon or Bat Figure inside Ornate Frame – Fear, darkness, and supernatural imagery.
• Fleur-de-lis – French royal symbol of purity, sovereignty, and heritage.
• Eagle/Winged Bird – Imperial power, vision, and dominance.
• Ermine Pattern (heraldic fur) – Purity, nobility, medieval heraldry.
• Ornate Gothic Frames and Scrollwork – Medieval and Renaissance artistic tradition.
• Radiating Shell Motif – Symbol of pilgrimage (esp. Camino de Santiago) and rebirth in classical art.
• Sunburst/Starburst Background Elements – Light, divine energy, and revelation.
• Abstract Floral Ornamentation – Aesthetic filler, evoking historical textile designs.
Interpretive Summary:
The top is a complex collage of occult, religious, heraldic, and mythological symbols. It blends Christian iconography (Madonna, angels), esoteric signs (All-Seeing Eye, chiromancy, alchemy), nature-related motifs (sun, butterfly, serpent), as well as aristocratic and power insignia (lion, ermine). This combination creates a multi-layered visual narrative about power, spirituality, seduction, transformation, and societal roles.
Fashion Context 1994:
The early 1990s were marked by a break from the excesses of the 1980s, moving toward deconstructed, grunge-inspired looks infused with subcultural references. Jean Paul Gaultier was a pioneer in mixing high fashion with street, punk, and fetish aesthetics.
This top reflects his signature style: provocation through the fusion of sacred and profane symbols, gender fluidity, and an ornamental, almost “tattoo-like” full-body print that transforms the wearer’s body into a work of art.